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B. Hieronymus Da
Unapologetic Western Chauvinist. Barefoot. Great Toenails
3,583
August 2016
bevesthda
Mass Effect Trilogy, Dragon Age: Origins, Dragon Age 2, Dragon Age Inquisition, KOTOR, Baldur's Gate, Neverwinter Nights
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Post by B. Hieronymus Da on Jan 2, 2022 23:18:00 GMT
I thought the video should be about painting pictures. Doesn't matter. She's mostly exactly right. Very good observations.
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Unapologetic Western Chauvinist. Barefoot. Great Toenails
3,583
August 2016
bevesthda
Mass Effect Trilogy, Dragon Age: Origins, Dragon Age 2, Dragon Age Inquisition, KOTOR, Baldur's Gate, Neverwinter Nights
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Post by B. Hieronymus Da on Feb 3, 2022 13:22:08 GMT
Apologies for the horrible music, but you can turn down the volume. Very neat work and clever tricks.
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lordmoral
At this rate all future Bioware games will be half done and modders need to rescue it for free.
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Aug 22, 2021 14:56:32 GMT
August 2021
lordmoral
Mass Effect Trilogy, Dragon Age: Origins, Dragon Age 2, Mass Effect Andromeda, Mass Effect Legendary Edition
Lord34145
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Post by lordmoral on Feb 10, 2022 14:27:27 GMT
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B. Hieronymus Da
Unapologetic Western Chauvinist. Barefoot. Great Toenails
3,583
August 2016
bevesthda
Mass Effect Trilogy, Dragon Age: Origins, Dragon Age 2, Dragon Age Inquisition, KOTOR, Baldur's Gate, Neverwinter Nights
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Post by B. Hieronymus Da on Feb 12, 2022 1:35:15 GMT
What Paints?My purpose with this is to clear a way through the jungle, if anyone reading this has an idea of trying painting in any of the media of 'Fine Art'. By that I mean non-functional art, functional art being design, illustration etc. Of course, there is hardly any border between illustration and fine art, unless the illustration is done digitally. But there may be a difference in material, because those need to be durable for pictures hanged for display. Anyway, while a serious, highest grade artist paint range may have 100 - 260 different paints, it's important to understand that those are NOT different shades of colors to choose from. It's not like a Pantone-range, or range of wall paints or car paints. They represent different pigments, with different properties. The color, that, you are expected to mix yourself, on the palette. This is of course not true about 'Soft Pastels' or 'Color Pencils', where the ability to mix is very limited. Thus, there you do have a selection of different shades of color. But it is true for Oil, Watercolor, Acrylic and Gouache. For those ranges, there are four different reasons why a paint is in the range. More about that some other time. But the artist is supposed to know what it is he/she/them picks. (And hopefully also why). What it is, is communicated in two ways; Manufacturers name and the “Color Index Generic Name”. It might be well to understand that you do not get to know exactly what it is, only the 'class' of pigments as in regard of its chemical composition. But that is mostly enough. First the name. It might be a 'true' name, as the name which the actual pigment has traditionally been sold under for a long time. Examples: Ultramarine, Burnt Umber. Or is a proper identifier for the type of pigment. Examples: Cadmium Red, Phthalo Blue. Or a label-name, pretend-name, that describes what original paint the paint attempts to mimic. Examples: Permanent Alizarin Crimson, Cadmium Yellow Hue, Purple Lake. (“Permanent” and “Hue” are common when the genuine pigment is still also available. Genuine Purple Lake, otoh, has been obsolete for so long that no one will mistake it for the original insect lake.) Or it may be a convenience name, that describes the proposed use and/or color. Examples: Transparent Yellow, Spring Green. Since different brands may use different names - there is no standard -, This is reinforced by the “Color Index Generic Name”, the information that read like: PR101, PB15:3 or PY35. This is not a code that identifies the actual pigment used (that is proprietary information that the manufacturer keeps to themselves), but rather classifies the coloring substance's chemical composition or origin. Enough preambles, because it's actually a lot easier to choose paints than you might have got the impression of. If you actually want to paint 'representative' images (and I don't really see that there need to be any difference for abstract), you should choose these paints (or closely related alternatives) : These four first are your main paints. You can easily mix most realistic colors with these, or get a good way towards it. To the left you see some sample mixes of Ultramarine and Burnt Sienna, to the right mixes of Phthalo Blue and Raw Sienna. But these four paints does not make a complete palette. You need these too: And here is a bit to talk about. The 'RED' can be Pyrrol Red = PR254, Pyrrol Scarlet = PR255, DisAzo Condensation Scarlet = PR242, Cadmium Red = PR108 or the imitation 'Cadmium Red Hue', which is typically a compound of any of the first and maybe also Naphthol Scarlet Lake = PR188 or Perylene Red = PR149. All these reds are fine. Keep in mind though, that Cadmium Red = PR108 is more expensive and represents a bigger hazard for children, pets and environment. Pyrrol Red is the best choice for a hobby painter. It's also the second most permanent, after genuine Cadmium Red. Similarily, there are a number of acceptable alternative 'Lemon Yellow'. Benzimidazolone Yellow H6G = PY175 and Cadmium Lemon = PY35, are just the best. Hansa Yellow 10G = PY3 is pretty much the least durable of common "Lemon Yellow", but quite good enough and popular because it's so cheap and strong. Stronger than the previously mentioned. The original, genuine 'Lemon Yellow', Barium Chromate = PY31, is no longer available and today replaced by Nickel Antimony Titanate = PY53. Those two are rather special, and you don't want any of them for a small palette. Beta Quinacridone comes under many different names: Permanent Magenta, Purple Lake,.. Look for PV19 and the darker magenta color (Beta). For Oil paints, you might prefer Ivory Black to Lamp Black. Edit: When I wrote this, my mind was mainly on watercolors. Except for two colors, it doesn't make any difference for Oil paints or Acrylic paints. It's the same. But not for Red and Lemon Yellow. The pigments used for watercolors are often too expensive for most brands of Oil and Acrylic. They're also not needed, because other pigments have good permanence in these media. In particular, you're unlikely to find PY175 at all. A PY3 is more likely. For red, there are many cheap candidates. Some new versions of PR9 and PR170, both Naphthol Red AS, very common, cheap, mass produced red pigments, perform well in Acrylic. With these eight paints you're very well equipped. But you may still want to add some other for special purposes: The 'Light Red' in the image is closer to a 'Venetian Red' and that is almost preferable. These Red Ochres are distinctly redder than Burnt Sienna, much more opaque and much stronger. They are great for faint, pink tints and dominant browns. Similarly, Yellow Ochre is more yellow, opaque and stronger than Raw Sienna. They lack the Siennas' depth and are thus less versatile and more specialized, but often the better choice as base for things like greens and skin tones. Gamma Quinacridone comes under many names just like its brother: Permanent Rose, Quinacridone Rose,.. Look for the Rose color (Gamma) and the PV19 designation again. The cold Phthalo Green = PG7, may also come as "Viridian Hue". Useful for cleaner, brighter greens and blue greens. Common recommendation that I don't recommend: Burnt Umber. Actually a great pigment. But you don't need it. Common recommendations That I recommend you don't bother with: Alizarin Crimson Hue or Permanent Alizarin Crimson. Will lead you to bad mixing habits. Sap Green or Permanent Sap Green. A horribly unnecessary paint. As is any 'Hooker's Green'. Payne's Grey. Another horribly unnecessary paint, that may also lead you to bad mixing habits. Common recommendation that I recommend you don't listen to: "You don't need any black. The black you mix yourself looks much better." - Utter hogwash! A great black is awesome to have,.. the things you can do with it. Brands? Well, I strongly recommend what I call Budget Artist brands. I do not recommend the high end, top grade, artists brands. But more about that in a later post.
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Unapologetic Western Chauvinist. Barefoot. Great Toenails
3,583
August 2016
bevesthda
Mass Effect Trilogy, Dragon Age: Origins, Dragon Age 2, Dragon Age Inquisition, KOTOR, Baldur's Gate, Neverwinter Nights
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Post by B. Hieronymus Da on Feb 12, 2022 16:08:54 GMT
Some additional comments about the recommended paints in my previous post.
Burnt Sienna can be both PR101 and PBr7. And it can even be PY43 and PR102. Or contain PY42 or be any mix of those. And Raw Sienna can be PY42, PY43 or Pbr7. What's the deal here? Well, they're all roughly the same thing. Iron Oxide and/or Iron Hydroxide.
PR101 means that it's a synthetic pigment dominated by red iron oxides. PR102 means that it's a natural pigment dominated by red iron oxides (almost never exists as Sienna, typically an Ochre) . PY42 means that it's a synthetic pigment dominated by yellow iron hydroxides. PY43 means that it's a natural pigment that is (or was) dominated by iron hydroxides. Pbr7 means that it's generally the same as PR101, PR102, PY42 or PY43, but the content of Manganese is above a certain threshold percentage, giving a more brown color, never mind if the iron oxide is hydrated or not. These are normally called “Umbers”. Basically, these are all Ochres. red, yellow, brown. Sienna and Umber being more transparent varieties of Ochre. The most useful Siennas are the PR101 (burnt) and PY42 or 43 (raw) ones. They have the most red and yellow hues. In oil, if the brand's Burnt Sienna is too brown, you may want to look for 'Transparent Oxide Red', also PR101, as an alternative. That pigment – excellent in oil - is typically very “dead”-looking in watercolor though. Similarly Yellow Ochre, as I have given as PY42, may very well alternatively be PY43, doesn't matter.
Prussian Blue = PB27 is a usable alternative to Phthalo Blue, but is notably duller in color. There are a number of different Phthalo Blues. The most permanent one, PB15:0, is no longer available because no one wanted it. It was just as dull as Prussian Blue. The best of the others are PB15:1 (bluer) and PB15:3 (greener). The least lightfast seem to be PB15:6 (bluest) and PB15:4 (greenest). Otherwise it doesn't really matter.
Ultramarine pigments = PB29 sometimes comes under an old traditional trade name, “Permanent Blue”. That variety is excellent, as is “French Ultramarine”. But stay away from 'Ultramarine Deep'. It's too violet to be versatile.
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B. Hieronymus Da
Unapologetic Western Chauvinist. Barefoot. Great Toenails
3,583
August 2016
bevesthda
Mass Effect Trilogy, Dragon Age: Origins, Dragon Age 2, Dragon Age Inquisition, KOTOR, Baldur's Gate, Neverwinter Nights
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Post by B. Hieronymus Da on Feb 12, 2022 16:14:33 GMT
Health, Safety and Environment.
So it dawned upon me that I probably need to say something about health hazards. Well, artist paints are not really dangerous (any longer), but you don't need to be stupid about it either. And keeping a few things in mind, make them “less dangerous”. (P.S. : The solvents used for oil painting are dangerous! Even the "odorless". Don't paint oil indoors in your home. Get a studio or go outdoors.)
First of all, don't trust the label “Non-Toxic” for even a microsecond. I have not kept up to date what it's supposed to mean in legal terms in different regions today. I just ignore it. I was a child when it started to pop up, and then it only meant that any attempt to murder someone, by feeding them paint, wouldn't be instantly successful. Basically, it only meant they had removed Arsenic, Mercury and Lead.
And while we're at labels, the phrase “For Artist Use”, or anything similar, is NOT a quality grade! Absolute rubbish is marketed as “for artists”. They simply have to have that declaration on, to be allowed to sell it in retail in some countries.
The only completely safe colors, are those that are explicitly intended also for children, and made by big reputable, responsible Western brands like Caran D'ache and Crayola.
From which follows: Don't give artist paints to children as toys. And keep out of children's reach (and pets). The thing with children, is that even if you trust them to not try the paints as candy, they're still liable to try it to play tattoo or makeup. And even if you successfully teach them not to, how do you stop such things from happening, when they are joined by friends or smaller siblings?
But also don't be scared. You don't have much to worry about. There's also no real reason for a hobby painter to use genuine Cadmium, Cobalt or Antimony pigments. Those are extremely permanent, but there are modern alternatives that are quite good enough and paint and mix better, not to mention that they are much cheaper. There's also an environmental incentive to avoid Cadmium and Cobalt, because you will produce waste., and how do you dispose of rags and wash liquids with good conscience?
You need to keep in mind and understand two symmetric rules:
1: All (modern) artist paints are perfectly safe as long as you use them as intended. Which typically means use it for art, and apply it on suitable surface (not your skin, for instance, or Easter eggs), typically canvas, board or paper, with a brush or painting knife (not your fingers). Stick to this rule and even Cadmium and Cobalt paints are completely harmless. 1B: Don't eat where you paint. (It's not dangerous to accidentally get a modern paint on your hands. You only need gloves for Lead, Mercury and Arsenic paints, and don't use those anyway. But there is a difference between accidently getting some paint on you hand, and painting with your hands or painting on your skin. Don't do that.)
2: No artist paint is guaranteed to be safe, if you use it for a purpose, or in a way, that is not intended. In particular, do not use an artist watercolor paint in an airbrush. There are many pigments that are known to be highly safe, Iron Oxides and Iron Hydroxides for instance. But paints also contain other ingredients, for stabilization, for consistency, against bacteria, mold and fungi. These additions can be allergens and/or carcinogens. And as you can probably guess, anti-mold, anti-fungi additions are toxins. 2B: Don't paint where you eat.
Finally, don't ever be tempted to try to use dry pigment powders, to “make your own paints” or anything like that. Steer clear of such nonsense. Just buy ready colors already milled together with a binder and other ingredients.
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Beerfish
N7
Little Pumpkin
Games: Mass Effect Trilogy, Dragon Age: Origins, Dragon Age 2, Dragon Age Inquisition, KOTOR, Baldur's Gate, Neverwinter Nights, Mass Effect Andromeda, Anthem, Mass Effect Legendary Edition
Origin: Beerfish
XBL Gamertag: Beerfish77
Posts: 14,981 Likes: 35,703
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August 2016
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https://bsn.boards.net/user/314/personal
Mass Effect Trilogy, Dragon Age: Origins, Dragon Age 2, Dragon Age Inquisition, KOTOR, Baldur's Gate, Neverwinter Nights, Mass Effect Andromeda, Anthem, Mass Effect Legendary Edition
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Beerfish77
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Post by Beerfish on Feb 12, 2022 19:53:41 GMT
Question, how do you go about keeping track of portion size when mixing paints for a new colour?
Here was my scenario last year. I use acrylic paints and just paint on wood as a medium.
I have a few sets of just 10 packs of generic colours which do the job in most cases. However on one project I needed kind of a teal/aqua shade. My first instinct was just to head out to an art store and find he shade I wanted but then I thought "I can probably mix my own." since I do not need a lot of that shade.
I did a quick net search to get some recommendations on what colours to combine. (Turned out to be blue, green an white if i recall).
I did small small mixes and found a pretty good match for what I wanted and thus all was good as I did not need a lo of the shade.
However I got thinking, what if I need to make more of that shade in the future? Other than just experiment I have no idea how much of each paint i mixed. How can you keep track of how much you mix of each?
Tips?
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Unapologetic Western Chauvinist. Barefoot. Great Toenails
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August 2016
bevesthda
Mass Effect Trilogy, Dragon Age: Origins, Dragon Age 2, Dragon Age Inquisition, KOTOR, Baldur's Gate, Neverwinter Nights
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Post by B. Hieronymus Da on Feb 12, 2022 22:01:20 GMT
So you have a set of acrylic paints? Tubes? And you squeezed out a small amount and mixed an aqua shade of color?
No, there's no simple way to mix a shade and arrive at a recipe for that exact shade. It's possible, of course, weighing and stuff, to arrive at a recipe. But it's not easy and it's unlikely that the recipe produces the exact same shade again. Was the paint in the tubes of even and homogenous consistency?
Anyway, it's quite easy to match a color mix again. Take a card and punch a hole. Paint the card and hold on top of the color that is to be matched. You'll easily see which direction you need to tweak the mix. When there is no difference between the card and the hole, you're finished.
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Beerfish
N7
Little Pumpkin
Games: Mass Effect Trilogy, Dragon Age: Origins, Dragon Age 2, Dragon Age Inquisition, KOTOR, Baldur's Gate, Neverwinter Nights, Mass Effect Andromeda, Anthem, Mass Effect Legendary Edition
Origin: Beerfish
XBL Gamertag: Beerfish77
Posts: 14,981 Likes: 35,703
inherit
Little Pumpkin
314
0
35,703
Beerfish
14,981
August 2016
beerfish
https://bsn.boards.net/user/314/personal
Mass Effect Trilogy, Dragon Age: Origins, Dragon Age 2, Dragon Age Inquisition, KOTOR, Baldur's Gate, Neverwinter Nights, Mass Effect Andromeda, Anthem, Mass Effect Legendary Edition
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Post by Beerfish on Feb 12, 2022 23:05:55 GMT
Oh the card and hole is a good idea, yeah i have acrylic tubes.
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Unapologetic Western Chauvinist. Barefoot. Great Toenails
3,583
August 2016
bevesthda
Mass Effect Trilogy, Dragon Age: Origins, Dragon Age 2, Dragon Age Inquisition, KOTOR, Baldur's Gate, Neverwinter Nights
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Post by B. Hieronymus Da on Feb 22, 2022 23:40:55 GMT
Brands
I promised to mention brands. Why would brand matter? Well the expectation is some level of quality, isn't it? And that works, but IMO, while there are categories of quality, and price, it's not the deal it seems. The “noise” and “myths” about this are legions. Let me kill a bunch of them:
As long as a paint is strong enough to easily paint deep values and saturated full colors, it doesn't matter how strong it is, or “how richly pigmented” it is. Furthermore, without familiarity with the pigment, you have no ability to judge how “pigmented” it is. Some pigments are very strong, some are weak.
There is no difference in brightness, brilliance or clarity of color, between different brands. I've painted with six of the twelve high grade artist watercolor brands, and with two which don't exist anymore (Linel and Fragonard), in all eight, plus with five of the six budget artist watercolor brands. ...And there is no difference, given that you compare similar pigments. All the YouTube 'reviewers' who go “Ooh, the colors are so beautiful and they seem to pop... bla, bla.” are full of shit. There may be differences in how they paint, but these YouTubers generally wouldn't know that. You'll notice that the YouTubers who actually paint don't talk much about brands. And if you pay attention, you're likely to discover that they often use several brands without caring.
Two concepts which don't have the same meaning as they used to, in the old days, are 'artist grade' and 'student grade'. You'll understand the current market much better, if you think of it as 'high grade artist paints', 'budget artist paints', and 'hobby paints'.
The myths are that 'artist grade' are more concentrated (which is fairly true, most of the time), and that 'artist grade' is lightfast and permanent (not true, depends on choice of paint). Similar myths also said that 'student grade' paints are not lightfast. That could be true, if, in so much as real 'student grade' still exist, 'Sonnet' maybe? But when considering the 'budget artist brands' and 'hobby artist brands', the situation is the same as for 'high grade artist grade' paints: It depends on the choice of the individual paint in the range.
But actually, at least two budget brands have only durable paints, 'Van Gogh' and 'Cotman', as is also the case with one of the 'hobby' brands, 'Art Creation'.
So what is what? Simple, there are not many of them so lets list them. But before I do, carefully note that you must consider the full brand name, because many of these manufacturers have several different brands in different quality and price segments. And these are the watercolor paints, because those are the ones I'm most familiar with these days.
The High Grade Artist Brands:
Winsor & Newton Professional (previously “W&N Artist”) Schmincke Horadam Royal Talens Rembrandt M. Graham Daniel Smith ------ Daler Rowney Artist Sennelier Artist (aka L'Aquarelle) Da Vinci Mamieri Blu Holbein Old Holland ------ Golden Products Qor
These are the ranges of paints that represent the highest possible quality – as the manufacturer sees it -, with very little compromise. I'm not saying that every single paint in every brand is good <cough –WN- cough>). But comparing the 12 brands, with some kind of intention to find “the best brand” <cough –WN- cough> is not particularly meaningful. 'Qor' stands out because they don't use Gum Arabic as the binder, but a proprietary synthetic binder that makes them paint and flow much differently. 'M. Graham' stands out because they never dry or become hard on the palette, and if you have too much of them on the palette for too long, they will eventually go bad. Keep them in the tube for storage. 'Old Holland' stands out because last I checked they were unreasonably expensive. But that is pretty much most of what needs to be said.
Cheaper brand but maybe not exactly 'Budget'?:
Lukas 1862
Haven't tried them. Don't know anything about them. I've painted with the classic 'student grade' brand “Lukas” (sans the “1862” distinction) a long time ago, and they were not good back in those days.
Budget Artist WaterColors
Royal Talens Van Gogh Winsor & Newton Cotman Daler Rowney Aquafine Grumbacher Academy ----- - Nepskaya Palitra White Nights Shanghai Aowen Paul Rubens Premium Artist's
This category of paints is what I recommend. I haven't yet tried the new revamped 'Grumbacher Academy', only the old “student grade”, several decades ago, and they were not good then. But I think the new budget artist range might be good. I've painted with all the other 5 though, and I like them, with some slight reservations for 'Paul Rubens Premium Artist's'.
The ones I paint with currently, are 'Cotman', from Winsor & Newton. And I like them better than the rest. But, objectively, the highest quality of these are 'Van Gogh'.
Hobby watercolor paints, finally, are everything else. Quality varies tremendously. What separates them from 'Budget Artist' brands, is that they can't be easily used for attempts at making serious art, for either of two different reasons. They may not be permanent enough, or they may not be strong enough. They typically only sell in sets, not in open stock. I can't list all, and I haven't tried any of them, but a few commonly seen brands:
Royal Talens Art Creation (permanent) Lefranc & Bourgeois : If you find any of those old "Fine", pan sets still around, those are "Budget Artist", not "Hobby". They're very good, kinda like previous generation Cotman, though I think it's a discontinued product. Currently they have 24 "Studio" paints, in 12 and 24 set.
Arteza Premium Nepskaya Palitra Sonnet (garbage pigments, when I last checked a few years ago.) Shanghai Aowen Paul Rubens Shinhan Pro
A brand that I've seen in action that is really bad, is Rowney 'Simply Watercolour'. Don't waste your time and money (Rowney's Artist and Aquafine brands are good though, so don't let it taint the Rowney name). I've also been very unimpressed by watching Castle Art and Royal & Langnickel being used.
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At this rate all future Bioware games will be half done and modders need to rescue it for free.
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Post by lordmoral on Feb 26, 2022 2:27:51 GMT
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At this rate all future Bioware games will be half done and modders need to rescue it for free.
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Post by lordmoral on Mar 27, 2022 1:00:34 GMT
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At this rate all future Bioware games will be half done and modders need to rescue it for free.
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Post by lordmoral on Apr 22, 2022 2:16:02 GMT
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Unapologetic Western Chauvinist. Barefoot. Great Toenails
3,583
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bevesthda
Mass Effect Trilogy, Dragon Age: Origins, Dragon Age 2, Dragon Age Inquisition, KOTOR, Baldur's Gate, Neverwinter Nights
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Post by B. Hieronymus Da on Apr 22, 2022 18:22:32 GMT
I like the design and colors of this one. And it's an Allosaurus, I agree.
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At this rate all future Bioware games will be half done and modders need to rescue it for free.
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Post by lordmoral on Apr 24, 2022 1:05:28 GMT
I like the design and colors of this one. And it's an Allosaurus, I agree. I am glad to know you like it.
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Unapologetic Western Chauvinist. Barefoot. Great Toenails
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August 2016
bevesthda
Mass Effect Trilogy, Dragon Age: Origins, Dragon Age 2, Dragon Age Inquisition, KOTOR, Baldur's Gate, Neverwinter Nights
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Post by B. Hieronymus Da on Apr 24, 2022 1:33:30 GMT
I am glad to know you like it. Oh, I'm going to steal color scheme and some compositional elements for something, one day, don't know what.
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At this rate all future Bioware games will be half done and modders need to rescue it for free.
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Post by lordmoral on May 6, 2022 16:12:28 GMT
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Unapologetic Western Chauvinist. Barefoot. Great Toenails
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bevesthda
Mass Effect Trilogy, Dragon Age: Origins, Dragon Age 2, Dragon Age Inquisition, KOTOR, Baldur's Gate, Neverwinter Nights
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Post by B. Hieronymus Da on May 7, 2022 23:46:00 GMT
Once again, the wonderful virtuosity of Vladimir Volegov.
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At this rate all future Bioware games will be half done and modders need to rescue it for free.
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Post by lordmoral on May 8, 2022 2:31:37 GMT
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Unapologetic Western Chauvinist. Barefoot. Great Toenails
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bevesthda
Mass Effect Trilogy, Dragon Age: Origins, Dragon Age 2, Dragon Age Inquisition, KOTOR, Baldur's Gate, Neverwinter Nights
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Post by B. Hieronymus Da on May 9, 2022 13:10:14 GMT
An interesting perspective on Volegov doing a painting, showing his color handling.
A quick rundown on what he has on the palette (close enough to what I recommended some time ago, above). All Talens Rembrandt. From bottom left, clockwise:
Cadmium Lemon PY35 (Cadmium Zinc Barium Sulfide) Raw Sienna PY42/PR101 (a Yellow Ochre, Iron Hydroxide and Oxide) Vermilion (not genuine, replacement paint) PO73 (Pyrrol Orange) (does hardly use in this painting) Cadmium Red Medium PR108 (Cadmium Sulfide Selenide) (does hardly use in this painting) Permanent Red Violet PR202 (Quinacridone Crimson) Burnt Sienna PR101 (a Red Ochre, Iron Oxide) Caput Mortuum Violet PR101/PB29/PR264 (Iron Oxide, Ultramarine, Pyrrol Rubine, a tinted Red Ochre, convenience paint) Transparent Oxide Brown PR101 (another Red Ochre, Iron Oxide) Raw Umber PY42/PR101/PBk11 (an Ochre/Synthetic Umber, Iron Hydroxide and Oxides) Cobalt Turquoise PB36 (a turquoise variant of PB36 -blue- Cobalt Chromite) Ultramarine Deep PB29 (an Ultramarine) Cinnabar Green Light PG7/PY154/PY42 (a replacement paint. Phthalo Green - Chlorinated Copper Phthalocyanine -, is tinting Benzimidazolone Yellow H3G and Iron Hydroxide) (No connection at all with Cinnabar, name arbitrarily chosen at end of the 1700s. Original "Cinnabar Green" was one of those hysterically toxic Copper Arsenic pigments, replaced with a mixture of Ferric Ferrocyanide and Strontium Chromate around 1860. That in turn was replaced with other mixtures as pigments became available. I'm sure many are/have been based on Cadmium Yellow) Green Earth and Ivory Black ? Then comes two dark unknown paints, that have mistakenly got the Cadmium Red label duplicated. maybe some convenience greys, maybe Green Earth and Ivory Black, but I have no clue. The last one is a small splat of Phthalo Green (cold) PG7. He hardly uses it and squeezes out some Cobalt Green PG26 instead, later in the video. In the middle, also Warm Grey PBk9/PR101/PW6 (Bone Black, Iron Oxide, Titanium White, a convenience paint) And beside that, something unnamed that is probably Burnt Umber PR101/PBk11 (Iron Oxides. Genuine Burnt Umber is PBr7, which means it contains Iron Manganese Oxide besides Iron Oxide. Don't remember but I think the threshold is 3% Manganese, if you analyze for Manganese, more, maybe 25% ? if you analyze for Iron Manganese Oxide. Otherwise it's formally a Sienna, but Rembrandt makes it the color of an Umber. Talens Rembrandt obviously don't like having Manganese in their Umber. I understand that. Umber oil paint dry real fast and like to get hard in the tubes. In Watercolor, it releases and falls off your palette. Very annoying.
Personal notes: He uses remarkably little white. Instead he relies on some weaker pigments and convenience paints, that require less white. It's a long time since I last painted oils, but I certainly didn't work like this.
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B. Hieronymus Da
Unapologetic Western Chauvinist. Barefoot. Great Toenails
3,583
August 2016
bevesthda
Mass Effect Trilogy, Dragon Age: Origins, Dragon Age 2, Dragon Age Inquisition, KOTOR, Baldur's Gate, Neverwinter Nights
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Post by B. Hieronymus Da on May 10, 2022 20:36:22 GMT
Just wood carving. Without a CNC. Been done all over the World for thousands of years. But it's good work and a good video, so enjoy.
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B. Hieronymus Da
Unapologetic Western Chauvinist. Barefoot. Great Toenails
3,583
August 2016
bevesthda
Mass Effect Trilogy, Dragon Age: Origins, Dragon Age 2, Dragon Age Inquisition, KOTOR, Baldur's Gate, Neverwinter Nights
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Post by B. Hieronymus Da on Jul 9, 2022 20:56:32 GMT
Personally, I have a slightly hard time to enjoy this. I don't like trash, slum and junkyards, so this is not terribly attractive to me. But it is a phenomenal piece of work, and deserves admiration.
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B. Hieronymus Da
Unapologetic Western Chauvinist. Barefoot. Great Toenails
3,583
August 2016
bevesthda
Mass Effect Trilogy, Dragon Age: Origins, Dragon Age 2, Dragon Age Inquisition, KOTOR, Baldur's Gate, Neverwinter Nights
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Post by B. Hieronymus Da on Jul 18, 2022 19:46:52 GMT
No compromise. This is some of the most... well something, I've seen. Incredible detail in a large scale 1:350 ship. Compare the size of details with his fingertips, to get a grasp of the scale.
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B. Hieronymus Da
Unapologetic Western Chauvinist. Barefoot. Great Toenails
3,583
August 2016
bevesthda
Mass Effect Trilogy, Dragon Age: Origins, Dragon Age 2, Dragon Age Inquisition, KOTOR, Baldur's Gate, Neverwinter Nights
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Post by B. Hieronymus Da on Jul 29, 2022 19:50:58 GMT
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5,203
B. Hieronymus Da
Unapologetic Western Chauvinist. Barefoot. Great Toenails
3,583
August 2016
bevesthda
Mass Effect Trilogy, Dragon Age: Origins, Dragon Age 2, Dragon Age Inquisition, KOTOR, Baldur's Gate, Neverwinter Nights
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Post by B. Hieronymus Da on Jul 29, 2022 19:51:37 GMT
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