End of Year PC Build

I'm in agreement here....that setup looks solid.  If you want a magnetic HDD on top of that as an added resource (for storage, perhaps?)  My recommendation would be the Western Digital Blue series ( they are good for storage of various types of media such as movies, photos etc).  The Western Digital Green series are you basic "everyday" hard drives....your Black series are your "Performance" drives (meant for Gaming, Encoding, CAD/Animation etc), Reds and Purples are your NAS (Network Adapted Storge) Drives and your "Surveillance" Drives respectively (surveillance being if you have things like closed circuit security cameras around your house)....You can backup the video footage on the cameras to the WD Purple Drives for later review. .... and then there's the "Gold Standard", the WD Gold drives which come in crazy sizes of something like 16 to 24 TB, and for what purpose....I don't know, but theyre minimum price of 559.99 +++.

But for general back-up and storage of personal files.....I would recommend Western Digital Blue (they come in 1, 2, 3 and 4 TB sizes and run at either 5400 or 7200 rpm)

Heck, you can even get the same model and series of drive in an SSD or M.2 format if you wish.  At CanadaComputers they are no more than 69.99 CAD plus tax.  Some as low as 39.99 CAD.

This was a very expensive upgrade but it was worth every penny for me.

I'm running two pairs of those on RAID 1. Now my PC is so quiet that I sometimes forget that it is on.

Hmmm, what about beQuiet? It's the most popular brand in Germany for PSU and cooler. My current one is a beQuiet 630W 80 bronze. So nothing fancy at all and it's been chugging along for 8 years. So I am again biased towards what has worked for me which of course is not a good metric in the age of planned obsolescence. Seasonic is quite a bit more expensive. But I'll look into it. I take it I don't need the best most expensive one they have. EVGA I cannot get through that one online shop for whatever reason. Amazon sells them though.

Do I really need THAT much headroom? I did some fast calculations from your link and I think my system is around 500W tops, and 630W always worked fine for me. So I'm very surprised! I'll have to see about GPUs. As somebody who mods and likes 4K textures I kinda need vRAM. 12GB for a 900€ card (4070Ti) is an insult! Nvidia is so high on their monopoly greed they don't care anymore how upset people get, it seems. At the end of the day people will cough up the money. What else are they gonna do? Now AMD is playing the same game, so they can charge whatever they want for their shitty products. RX7600 is 8GB too, lol! Sharing the bottle of gamer tears, those two. Disgusting!

No. That wattage I state is an example of one of my builds designed to last around a decade without upgrading the PSU.
Also consider my system runs ALOT of fans, hard drives and did I say fans? That all adds up and must be covered with overhead. 
Some may say there is no reason for overhead and while true it can done it also can be a bad idea to run something at the limit constantly.
Ever seen a car engine on a dynamo for hours detonate?
Overhead abates this for a while longer. 

Did your calculations take into account your current CPU and GPU or the 13700 and a 4000 series?
I can't say for your current CPU but if your sitting at 500W then the CPU could be using up to 250W -which seems a little overbore...  Unless the 1080 TI GPU is using its 250W maximum wattage -though since never used a 1080TI can not attest to whether how often it does that. That doesn't mean the CPU or GPU will stay at the wattage but they could at points spike to it. Still nonetheless in the above 630W is almost a 150W overhead -so a fine build. 

That said IF this new build is going to be a 13700K and that 1080 TI your wattage is:
13700K --> 245W max -ignore the TDP -it lies. So 245W+250W(1080 Ti) =495W +80W MB =575W. So if you use your current PSU it would work under these conditions and could work till the 4000 series or whatever you did acquire but it will be close to the limit. Though for the new GPU -you would need a new PSU anyway -with the new power plug -shoddy design in my opinion but I am not a mechanical engineer.  

That said if you went for the 4070TI then your going to need to go up at least 50W-100W to support the max wattage of the card which is close to 300W (285W). So that would be 245W+300=545W+100W Good MB. Now while you could use your PSU here as well you would have less than a 100W overhead but still doable 
A 100W to a 150W overhead in my opinion is fine: 700W - 750W. 

The closest to the 4070TI is the RX 6950 XT which has 16GB and uses around 335W and at last I knew was around $600 but again its last generation. 

Yes.
This

First off cool case.
Let me break down wattage so here we go:

The case comes with two RGB fans -each fan will use around 4 Watts a piece so 8W for the case.
Most motherboards will run around 80W-100W -Though being ASUS AMD -I would need to double check. 
That SSD is around 5.9W full bore so I will round up to 7W. -Though may want to have a backup just incase since its only got a 3 Year warranty. 
That Ram in my estimates should pull no more than 2W -maybe more with RGB so I will add 3W to be safe so 5W total -may be overkill but playing safe.
The 5700X is supposedly a 65W TDP chip but some estimates put its draw when pushed to 88W.
That cooler only adds 1.5W for the one fan so we will say 2W.

The listed 4070ti's max watt draw is 285W so even though its an overclocked model -that limit is hard wired.
Also note: They ripped you off.
The PNY GeForce RTX 4070 Ti 12GB XLR8 Gaming Verto Epic-X RGB is cheaper on Amazon at about $830:

In total it comes to around -ironically 495W so even a 650W would be ok. 
In my estimates a 850W gold PSU could net you between 5-7/8 years of use -taken into account degradation, environment and humidity factors. 
If you were to keep those in check you could make a decade.

That all said -the higher you go on PSU the more power will be used and tacked on your power bill. Its a careful art of finding the balance between PSU longevity and power bill efficiency. 

That also helps LESSEN wear and tear on the PSU by running 24/7/365. Sure it may be more costly and the "On and off and on and off" cycle may not seem like it would cause wear and tear but just like spinning a tire to start out every morning would eventually bald the tire so to will the power cycling wear and tear the PSU.

That said I would assume being 10 years means its either a FX system or one of the early Intel Core I3/5/7? How much power is everything drawing?
If less than half the PSU that would explain it. If its near the 650W then that just proves that Seasonic -despite the few bad apples does indeed still live up to its name. 

 EDIT: @Kappa Neko
Addendum:
After sleeping on it my confusion is gone. Its most likely that the CPU and motherboard combined are hitting around the 250W so I would say IF the Motherboard is hitting around 100W then the CPU is hitting 150W! -Haven't checked back to see what CPU you running but I can assume that its an Intel. I had to rework the math accounting for the motherboard so recheck above. 

A second update. Seems the forum will NOT update syntax on the fly.

Update to the above post got annoying so I just post the last part that I tried to edit:
That said if you went for the 4070TI then your going to need to go up at least 50W-100W to support the max wattage of the card which is close to 300W (285W). So that would be 245W+300=545W+100W(Good MB)=645W . This would exceed your current PSU and definitely would want a new one with a native 4000 connector.

A 100W to a 150W overhead in my opinion is still fine but would be: 750W - 800W.

That is part of the reason at least. If the PC is a 24/7 machine or is used very little and for little time then that also could be part of the reason.  Also hardware -if taken real good care at stock should last 10 to 15 years in my experience. Overclocked you may get 5 to 10 years depending on the amount of OC but there will be greater degradation than at stock. Jay made a video about it in the past -don't remember the title -about a CPU he overclocked and down the line had to keep lowering the voltage -I think even below stock to keep it stable. 

You can tell when hardware or electronics are straining when you smell the metal smoke -once you smell it you will never forget it and its a good warning sign to back down an OC -if not already too late -which sometimes it can become. 

Well there was some experimentations with using Reshade to "fake" RT using Path Traced Global Illumination -don't know what became of it but doubt you would be intresteted in it anyway. So yeah the 4070TI is the best option for you.

Maybe its better off waiting for it on Newegg or Amazon and watch the prices or sign up for notificiation when the prices dip or rise. Its that or wait for the 5000 series and then get the 4070ti when it drops in price then. My personal take would be to buy the 6950 and keep the 1080TI and then sell both to purchase the 4070ti in a year or so.


That way you get some RT ability and get a little knowledge of use of it before hand. May not be the best nor the prettiest but at least you would be able to dip your toes into it. Furthermore you may actually break even doing that -selling both or a profit in the long run if the 4070ti does come down. 

I agree you that you can't trust anybody though paranoia can only be combatted with knowledge in my opinion. That is why I am skeptical about every purchase where I haven't been able to do the necessary research -that is few and far between and usually only the small things like a ethernet replacement cord and what not. I try and plan everything in advance but incase a purchase fails so I always get a backup. That is why if I use Newegg or Amazon -I go from them only not the Third party sellers.

I purchased the 970 I have back in 2015 for $340 and never intend to sell it. Its a beast for my secondary purposes and not having overclocked it I expect to last a long while yet. Furthermore I can be content with resolutions of 1600x900 and medium or even low detail. For me its more about the story than graphics and looks -with my personality I have a tendency to get engrossed in the story that I loose caring about the graphics but I can understand the other side to.

UPDATE:
bmwcrazy rewindbutton Energizer Bunny 211
I relent. I relent to you bmwcrazy. I have been patient. I have waited for MONTHS and still nothing from that Third Party buyer.
Even their billing never completed -LOL third parties!
Maybe they ran out but then why is it still shown in stock and no secondary contact?
Just nothing -its weird. No matter. 
Hint Hint:> Kappa Neko

I have read comments on Amazon that the seller was credible. I could continue waiting but I got data I need to transfer and get ready for system once up and running. So I am biting the bullet and getting them from BOTH Newegg and Amazon. One store has certain ones cheaper and vice versa for others.

Now I have read reviews and some people are concerned with them just shipping in a AS Bag...
I will get around that concern by telling them to gift wrap it.
So far I have got Newegg confirmation waiting on Amazon so already more progress in ONE MORNING than the last few months.
It may be sneaky but we will see how it goes.