End of Year PC Build

*drinks Earl Grey because right now coffee tastes like Buckely's*

Well first thing this morning I booted up my PC and opened EDGE....and *instant flashy* happened, so I did what I never though I would do, I finally switched over my Mouse from the Logitech G502 HERO (which I really like) to the new EVGA X17, juust this morning a moment ago. The X17 feels smaller in my hand and the response on the screen is so much faster! Almost tooooo fast for my liking.

But it looks as though the *flashy thingy* behaviour has disappeared since unplugging the Anti-Hero and deleting the GHub stuff. I've had the Anti-Hero for nearly 18 months and I liked it right away, but this recurring problem has really vexxed me. It's rendered my PC unusable. I guess this X17 will take some time to get used to and I won't go back to using the G502 unless or until Logitech gives me a fix or sends me a new Mouse. I'll just get used to using the X17 and I'm sure in time I will become accustomed to it.

Thanks for your post.  Yes I have checked the DPI Settings and they're always set at around 1200 for my personal liking.

Actaully since this morning at about 10....I think the problem has finally, finally been solved though I don't like the reason.  I spoke with another Rep from Logitech and she suggested that I switch USB ports; luckily I have 4 x USB 2.0 ports.  My Razer Black Widow keyboard and my G502 were always in the two middle ports right next to one another.  So I pulled out the Mouse, cleaned both the Mouse port and the port on the Motherboard, then moved the mouse to one port over so there is now a space between the KB/M.....and Viola!   NO Flashing of any kind.

She also watched the video I sent and said "It is extremely strange and even more rare to see this, it is definitely not a behaviour one would associate with a Mouse or software.  But let's continue to rule things out"

So....today since I switched USB ports, the strange screen flashing is totally, completely, absolutely gone.  While I am glad of that, I hate to think of the reason- a bad USB prt on a $500 Motherboard that is less than 18 months old.   And it can't be just that, because it was happening with my old system too, which was why I bought the new 10 series CPU and rig.

What was wrong with my old system that it even started in the first place?  I think it is just a coincidence that it has carried over and continued to present itself in this manner, especially now if on this relatively young Motherboard, it has happened again, only this time taken form due to a faulty USB port.

But again, I don't like to think that there is anything gone bad on a Board that is 500.00 CAD.

If that is the case though, I'm glad to solution was so easy and readily fixable....and that I don't have to replace the Motherboard again.

That would really piss me off.

But I don't want to give up my Razer BW! Now that I have a Mechanical keyboard....I love the clicky feeling, I honestly can't see how I ever typed on a trradtional rubber membrane keyboard.

If I ever needed another Keyboard I would by another Razer Black Widow or Razer-something, this has been a fantastic keyboard.

I understand. You prefer MX Blue switches -especially due to the tactile response... Not mention you can probably feel "HEAR" the keystrokes -like Marvel's Daredevil. Give me a Membrane -yes membrane keyboard -this one is still going 12 years later. The silence in all things: Typing, gaming and work is golden... Though I do like MX Red switches as well -I like the low resistance. I am liable to break keyboards otherwise. 

Only suggesting that its the possible root cause due to the USB on the device.
You are free to use it -not trying to imply you shouldn't.
Just stating that if you wanted to debug the issue to make sure it would never resurface...
Then that is one variable that could rule the keyboard out.

Well, 24 hours later.....I booted my PC ANNNNNND...... NO "Flashy-thingy"! *POOF* There it was.....GONE

Well now here is an option that I wasn't expecting...
My hard drive limit is no longer limited to six hard drives via the sata ports -which is usually six.
It would be quite expensive and I need no where that level of space yet...
I mean why would I need to have 21 hard drives connected this isn't no raid array.
Still -nice device:
m.media-amazon.com/images/I/51oX-xux30L._AC_SL1100_.jpg

*cover eyes with sunglasses; covers sunglasses with ears* Don't pay attention to AMD propaganda

From what I know Nvidia uses ABS plastic in the housing of their GPUS.
ABS plastic has a melting point of 200*C IE:> 392*F...
So once the plastic reaches the heat soak of 180*C the danger zone is being entered in my opinion.

Here is a rough calculation method to find degree change over time of temperature of the ABS:
Degree change in Celsius of ABS over a minute using 450 watts in a 4090 Strix:

450 W x 60 Secs= 27000J
27000J / 2508g = 10.7655502392 *C
10.7655502392 *C /1.99j/g K = 5.40982424082 *C
5.40982424082 *C...
So in one minute the temperature of the plastic raises 5.41 *C
More to the point that is 50*C in ten minutes so in 40 minutes it should reach the melting point.
Now if its pulling no more that 250 watts it raises the temperature of the plastic by only 3 *C per minute.
This of course does not take into account cooling of the plastic via case fans or GPU fans.

I don't think anyone has found anything specific yet. Some versions of the 4090 draw only 450W, so at least that much.

But if you have a bad connector, all bets are off.

As a veteran GTA V/GTA Online and CP2077 player, my experience is a bit different.

For GTA V/GTA Online, you definitely need to cap your framerate or use Vsync that's lower than 185 FPS. The game really starts to break and causes random stutters when you go over 185 FPS. If you have a monitor that's higher than 185hz like 240/320hz, you need to use half refresh rate to cap it at 120/160 FPS or manually limit the framerate using Nvidia's Control Panel to something like 180 FPS. If your monitor supports G-Sync, you should definitely use it instead of Vsync.

My main PC has a 144hz G-Sync monitor. For GTA V/GTA Online I limit the framerate at 140 FPS and use G-Sync. On average, my RTX 3090 uses less than 300 watts. So capping your framerate really reduces power consumption and makes the game run smoother as well.

In Cyberpunk 2077, my framerate usually hovers between 50-90 FPS. So there's no need to limit the framerate at all and the 3090 uses about 350-390 watts.

I only need one reason:  It's AMD/ATI.   I've been burned by all but one AMD/ATI Card (even when it was true ATI pre 2006) I've ever owned.  The Catalyst COntrol Centre is garbage, worse than Nvidia's Girlfriend Experience.

I won't be buying even a 30 series card, I'll stick with my 2080 SuperFTW3 Ultra Gaming....But I'm gonna be sticking with Nvidia cards until PC's just aren't a thing anymore.

WHAT YOU TALKING ABOUT?!!!
ATI was a good GPU maker.
Which cards died on you?
You sure they were ATI?
If you refer to drivers -this is true but its true for both sides -got to find that diamond in the rough. 


To. This. Day. They made the only GPU that while smoking did catch fire and still ran for about TWO minutes before finally dying...
Well it did come back to life for a bit a few days later before it finally died.

That said any AMD GPU before the RX 5000 series of GPU's I would agree are not worth it from AMD.
For instance the RX 550 I got some time back experienced one motherboard death and died -fans don't even run -where the 1050 Ti still runs.