The Very Best ME:A Screenshot Thread (with tips)

The above shaders were once included in SweetFX, and they do a lot of the heavy lifting for most presets. They are by no means mandatory to use, but they are each very useful.

Levels: does what you expect it to do - you can adjust what ReShade treats as the white and black point.
Curves: similar results to levels but with less control, but at the same time can be used to curve colours as well as light. Has several curve algorithms to choose from.
HDR: affects colours and light, this is your brightness and contrast in one. Can be fiddly to get both values working together, but it's great once you do. This is the only value I'm generally tweaking for brightness on a shot-by-shot basis with my current preset.
LiftGammaGain: very powerful colour and contrast tool, allowing you to change the gamma of RGB channels independently for shadows, midtones, and highlights. I do a lot of my initial colour tweaks with this shader, and then often come back and tweak it for finer changes once I've done other things. 
Tonemapping: contains several effects - gamma, exposure, saturation, bleach, and defog. Defog is another colour correction tool - the others do what you'd expect.
Vibrance: does what it says on the tin. Can be fiddly with negative values. Can be used for colour correction as well as just general vibrance.
SMAA: this is anti-aliasing, probably the best post-process anti-aliasing you can get. Better than FXAA (which is in most games). PP AA applies to the image after it is rendered, which often means it blurs the image and can't distinguish between different types of edges. SMAA keeps blurring to an absolute minimum, and is capable of really quite powerful AA. You could probably ditch ME:A's own AA and replace it with this for a more lightweight alternative without seeing a really huge loss in quality, especially if you're hotsampling - which will remove jaggies on its own.
Lumasharpen: sharpens the image, but will introduce more aliasing the higher you go. Avoid over-sharpening, it rarely looks good.

Elsewhere in ReShade, a really great colour correction shader is HSV. It's not included in 3.0.x (I found a randomly ported version in a thread somewhere on the ReShade forum, but it hasn't made it in officially yet.) In 2.0.x you can find it in MartyMcFly's cfg file. I'm not using this in my ME:A presets currently, but I've used it extensively in my TS4 presets.

Bloom is always fun to play with, although it can be tricky to get under control. It can be used for light and/or for colour correction. There are a couple of different bloom shaders. The one I generally use is just called Bloom inside Ganossa's cfg in 2.0.x. Ioxa's Gaussian Bloom is very powerful as well, and works noticeably differently to Ganossa's. There is a very basic bloom shader inside CeeJay's cfg (the old SweetFX bloom), but I don't use that because of its lack of controls.

Ambient Light (Ganossa) can be a lot of fun. It has its own adaptation controls (which might help mitigate some of ME:A's truly ridiculous adaptation - I haven't experimented), but is also another type of bloom in some ways. It can be quite heavy-handed, and it's a very slow shader to load, but can be nice situationally and add a lot of atmosphere.

Ambient Occlusion shaders will give you more options for shadowing, which can produce some really nice effects. In my current presets I'm using SSGI solely for its GI (global illumination), since I use HBAO Full in-game and haven't really felt the need for further AO. Most common to use in other games is SSAO, which is relatively lightweight (compared to HBAO for example) and has a good range of options. 3.0.x has MXAO, which is another great option (but won't work properly in ME:A).

Depth of Field has several shaders which offer different options. The best imo are Matso (what I used for the funky effects above) and ADOF/Marty McFly's. I have ADOF set up to mimic the bokeh shapes in ME:A, so I can use it as a substitute on the Tempest, where the Cinematic Tools' DoF doesn't work.

Both Ambient Occlusion and Depth of Field require a game to have access to the depth buffer. Not all games allow ReShade this access. ME:A does, but only when using 1.x.x and 2.0.x. 3.0.x sort of works but doesn't - it's very buggy. ME:A has a reversed depth buffer, which you need to tell ReShade about. 2.0.x makes it easy with a setting in Global.cfg.

One shader you might find ridiculously useful is LUT. There are two versions of this. I recommend using the one under Ganossa's cfg, under the Tuning Palette options. In case you haven't worked with LUTs before, LUT stands for Look-Up Table, and is used a great deal in cinematography to colour grade. The way it works in ReShade is you can take a bunch of vanilla screenshots of the game, and take them into Photoshop or similar and edit them using layers until you have something you like and that works across all situations. Then you open a neutral LUT and apply the same settings to it and save. Then point ReShade to that LUT, and it will effectively give your whole game the same settings you applied in Photoshop. Things like vignettes and grain and any selective area touch-ups won't work - this is all about colours and contrast that apply to the image as a whole. Here is a tutorial I made for TS4 players: From Photoshop to ReShade. I keep meaning to do this for ME:A, but have been too lazy to take all those vanilla screenshots ^^

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Tip: You can use negative values with most things, and you can use values outside of the range that is specified in the instructions for most as well. Some of the best effects can be had by playing around with numbers you wouldn't expect. I almost always use Levels with numbers outside their specified ranges. Using negative values for Bloom's RGB controls turns it into CMY controls as you'd probably expect.

Tip: even if you don't use SRWE, if you're adjusting a ReShade preset set the game to windowed mode. That way when you tab out you can still see the game running behind Notepad++ (or whatever you use), and as soon as you save your changes the game will update. You don't need to tab back in to see the changes, you can see them behind Notepad++.

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Versions

Most previous versions of ReShade are available here in a user-maintained repository. This repository has already changed locations at least once, and there is no guarantee these will be available in the future, so I recommend downloading all the versions you might need and storing them somewhere safe for future use. The most up-to-date version of ReShade is always available to download from the ReShade homepage, and by following links on there you can find the github project. ReShade the tool is now open-source. Individual shaders are created, maintained and owned by their respective authors.

3.0.x comes with its own in-game GUI for editing shaders. Some find this easier to deal with, although it's not the best designed GUI out there and comes with its own frustrations. The file structure is entirely different in 3.0.x, and using the GUI seems to be the easiest way to edit rather than using Notepad++.

Installation of 3.0.x is easy enough, although collecting together all the shaders you want to use with it can be awkward since there are quite a few useful and interesting ones not yet included on github, but scattered around the ReShade forum and elsewhere. Some shaders that lots of people enjoyed from earlier versions haven't been ported to 3.0.x as of yet.

2.0.x is probably best installed manually to avoid any frustrations with the assistant, but that's down to personal preference. The assistant can be used for editing, but most people I've seen don't find it an enjoyable experience. The best way to edit shaders is with Notepad++ or similar. (I recommend Notepad++ because it numbers lines, groups elements together with visual cues, and you can click next to a line to add a blue circle to the line to make it easy to find when you scroll down again later. Notepad++ is free.) Editing manually in this way also gives you greater control over the value increments, and lets you easily go outside of the specified range (which is where the magic happens). It might be daunting at first, but quite a few preset makers still prefer this way of editing. Of course, it's personal preference. Use whatever makes sense to you.

1.1.0 is still widely used by many. It doesn't quite have the functionality of 2.0.x, but is still fairly robust. Instead of the assistant, there is the mediator. Again, opinions vary on whether it's a good tool or not. Manual installation is still probably the best way to go, with manual editing of shaders via Notepad++, but that's up to you.

I still use 2.0.3 frequently, although tend to use 3.0.x with new games (unless it doesn't work as well, like in ME:A). The only way to decide which you prefer is to spend a good deal of time with each of them. There are no shortcuts to using ReShade if you want to create your own presets, but it's not nearly as complicated and complex as it can appear when you're starting out. Basically, if you have a keyboard with the keys 0-9 and can type those numbers you can create your own ReShade presets.